Zadnji dan...

Se zadnji dan uzivava na cudovitem jezeru. To je najvecje jezero v Kyrgistanu. Je tako veliko, da kljub nizkim temperaturam nikoli ne zmrzne. Po velikosti je to 2 najvecje alpsko jezero na svetu, takoj za Titicaco. Ubistvu sva tukaj obticala po sili razmer, ampak sploh ni tako slabo. V sredo sva sla gledat petroglife v blizini, kar pomeni da sva po vrocini hodila priblizno 3 ure. Mene je ze kar mocno bolelo koleno in ko sva prisla nazaj je bila kriza. Zvecer je bil ze zelo otecen, da skoraj nisem mogel hoditi, tako da sva se odlocila, da ostaneva se kak dan tukaj in oddahneva.

Mestece samo je bolj brez veze imajo pa zelo lep park in letmo rezidenco za predsednika. Se pa zadeva izjemno razvija in raste v turisticno meko, kot so sami povedali. Destinacija je izredna in jezero je prekrasno. Lahko bi pridobili celo veliko turistov iz Evrope ... ce ... ne bi bilo tako izjemno mraz, da bi preziveli samo skandinavci. Sezona traja le od srede julija do avgusta in to je to. Takrat je polno kazakstancev iz Almatyja, ki je nekak center financ in bogastva v KZS.

Tako, da sva dan prezivela na plazi ob igranju backgammona, ki se mu tukaj rece Nar`d in seveda obvezno zavita v 2 puloverja in se anorak. In to za cez dan. Zvecer je tak mraz, da sem jaz dobil jetiko. Tako da celo noc po tanovem kuriva pecko, da sploh preziviva. Tak mraz, ki se zaleze v kosti, tako da sva oba prehlajena in smrkava. Matr pa tak poletje.
Zvecer greva na dolgo pot do Biskeka in zjutraj navsezgodaj na avion. Ce naju vrli cariniki zaradi smrkanja ne bodo obsodili, da imava prasicjo gripo bova kmalu doma. Preventivno bova pred Ljubljano pojedla Lekadole, da ne bova zgledala bolana.

To je to in kmalu prideva!

Uke

Issyk-kul, Cholpon-Ata

Issyk Kul (also Ysyk Köl, Issyk-kol; Kyrgyz: Ысык көл, Russian: Иссык-Куль) is an endorheic lake in the northern Tian Shan mountains in eastern Kyrgyzstan. It is the ninth largest lake in the world by volume and the second largest saline lake after the Caspian Sea. Although it is surrounded by snow-capped peaks, it never freezes; hence its name, which means "warm lake" in the Kyrgyz language. The lake is a Ramsar site of globally significant biodiversity (Ramsar Site RDB Code 2KG001) and forms part of the Issyk-Kul Biosphere Reserve. It is also the site of an ancient metropolis 2500 years ago, and archaeological excavations are ongoing.

Lake Issyk Kul has a length of 182 km, a width of up to 60 km, and covers an area of 6,336 km². This makes it the second largest mountain lake in the world behind Lake Titicaca in South America. Located at an altitude of 1,608 m, it reaches 668 m in depth.
About 118 rivers and streams flow into the lake; the largest are Djyrgalan and Tyup. It is fed by springs, including many hot springs, and snow melt-off. The lake has no current outlet, but some hydrologists hypothesize that, deep underground, lake water filters into the Chu River. The bottom of the lake contains the mineral monohydrocalcite: one of the few known lacustrine deposits.


The lake's southern shore is dominated by the ruggedly beautiful Tian Shan mountain range. The lake water has salinity of approx. 0.6% (less than 3.5% of seawater) and its level drops by approximately 5 cm per year.
Administratively, the lake and the adjacent land are within Issyk Kul Province of Kyrgyzstan.

The Legend
In pre-Islamic legend, the king of the Ossounes had donkey's ears. He would hide them, and order each of his barbers killed to hide his secret. One barber yelled the secret into a well, but he didn't cover the well after. The well water rose and flooded the kingdom. The kingdom is today under the waters of Issyk-Kul. This is how the lake was formed, so legend says. Other legends say that four drowned cities lie at the bottom of the lake. Substantial archaeological finds indicating the presence of an advanced civilization in ancient times have been made in shallow waters of the lake.

History
Lake Issyk Kul was a stopover on the Silk Road, a land route for travelers from the Far East to Europe. Many historians believe that the lake was the point of origin for the Black Death that plagued Europe and Asia during the early and mid-14th century. The lake's status as a byway for travelers allowed the plague to spread across these continents via medieval merchants who unknowingly carried infested vermin along with them. A 14th century Armenian monastery was found on the northeastern shores of the lake by retracing the steps of a medieval map used by Venetian merchants on the Silk Road.
The lake level was some 8 meters lower in medieval times. Divers have found the remains of drowned settlements in shallow areas around the lake. In December 2007, a report was released by a team of Kyrgyz historians, led by Vladimir Ploskikh, vice president of the Kyrgyz Academy of Sciences, that archaeologists have discovered the remains of a 2500-year-old advanced civilization at the bottom of the Lake. The data and artifacts obtained suggest that the ancient city was a metropolis in its time. The discovery consisted of formidable walls, some stretching for 500 meters as well as traces of a large city with an area of several square kilometers. Other findings included Scythian burial mounds eroded over the centuries by waves, as well as numerous well-preserved artifacts, including bronze battleaxes, arrowheads, self-sharpening daggers, objects discarded by smiths, casting molds, and a faceted gold bar that was a monetary unit of the time.

Articles identified as the world's oldest extant coins were also found underwater with gold wire rings used as small change and a large hexahedral goldpiece. Also found was a bronze cauldron with a level of craftsmanship that is today achieved by using an inert gas environment.

Petroglyphs
The oldest petroglyphs are dated to approximately the Neolithic and late Upper Paleolithic boundary, about 10,000 to 12,000 years ago, if not earlier (Kamyana Mohyla). Around 7,000 to 9,000 years ago, other precursors of writing systems, such as pictographs and ideograms, began to appear. Petroglyphs were still common though, and some cultures continued using them much longer, even until contact with Western culture was made in the 20th century. Petroglyphs have been found in all parts of the globe except Antarctica with highest concentrations in parts of Africa, Scandinavia, Siberia, southwestern North America and Australia.

Jailoo a la Gašper

Vecerje v jurti (kirgiski sotor iz ovcjih preprog na visokogorskih pasnikih) se v resnici ne strezejo v jurti, ampak v vagonu poleg nje, kjer zivi druzina in taksisti, ki cakajo turiste (ti pa res prenocujejo v jurti pod tonami oddej in pokrival), da jih naslednji dan odpeljejo nazaj v dolino. Cakalni dan zaracunanjo celih 8 USD! Da, cakalni dan, ne ura ;)! In ce je turist vsaj malcek spreten z ruscino in taksist dovolj razgledan, je vecer ob petrolejki in caju lahko se
kako zanimiv. Tako sva izvedela skrivnost kirgiske cistoce in zdrave koze, navkljub neumivanju in nepreoblacenju ... ob rojstvu otroka prvi dan skopajo v slani vodi issyk kula, drugi dan kopeli dodajo se zelisca...in ni alergij, ni koznih bolezni in ni smradu... kako enostavno! Celo rane se celo zivljenje celijo hitreje zaradi tega posega. Kozmeticna industrija pa v jok...

Issyk Kul je sicer slano in precej toplo jezero z mnogimi termalnimi vrelci. V enem izmed jezerc v okolici pa je stopnja salinizacije celo taksna, da je jezero ze mrtvo in nudi obilo zabave in zdravja. Jezero je bilo eno pomembnejsih sovjetskih letovisc in vojna baza za preskusanje torpedov. Danes se razvija zlasti turizem. Labodi pa se, ne glede na politicne razmere, vracajo vsako zimo. Na visje lezece jezero Song Kul labodi priletijo vsako poletje iz Indije! Ko je SSSR razpadel je bilo tako malo hrane, da si jih vecino postrelili domacini za hrano. Sedaj pa ne vec.

Ozero Song Kul je od nizjega toka razdeljeno z visokim slapom, tako da v njemo rib ni bilo. So pa prisli na ideko in ribe umetno naselili v sedemdesetih in sicer so bile te ribe iz Armenije. No, zaradi prevelike eksploatacije trenutno se velja 10 letni moratorij na ribolov v obeh jezerih.

Je pa zato fauna dosti bolj razgibana v 100 (!) km nevtralnem pasu med Kitajsko in Kirgistanom. Taksna resitev za mejni spor Slo / Hr verjetno ne pride v postev, kajne ;)?

Jailoo

Najin gorski podvig sva zacela pri mami Miri, ki ima sobe v mestu Kochkor, ki je nekje izhodisce za obisk letnih pasnikov, ki se jim rece Jailoo. Soba je bila res lepa, vecerja pa se toliko bolj. Na mizo smo dobili domaco marmelado iz nekih super gozdnih sadezev, ki se jim po rusko rece maline. Midva sva pa ugibala, da so notri sigurno borovnice, pa brusnice pa ribez in maline. No pa so bile samo maline. TO JE BILA NAJBOLJSA MARMELADA EVER. In jaz sem seveda navalil k nor. Koncno ena super hrana. Pa hcerka od mame Mire gleda in ji rata jasno, da Gasper ne bo kusal marmelade, ce bo slo tako naprej. In sama od sebe prinse se eno skledcko marmelade in jo postavi pred njega. Smo se vsi full smejal.

No potem pa zjutraj na poletne pasnike, kjer se pasejo ovce (baranine), krave (karove), koze (kaze) in konji (konji). Tradicionalno so zivinorejci zimo (od oktobra do aprila!!!) preziveli v vasi, kjer je manj snega, cez poletje gredo pa v hribe na poletne pasnike. Zivijo v jurtah, ki jo dober pastir postavi v 3 urah. Midva bi jo nekje v 3 dneh najbrz. Ogrodje je leseno, okoli pa napnejo tkanino iz ovcje volne, ki sciti pred vetrom in dokler je nova tudi pred dezjem. Nasa je bila 8 let stara, tako da so vmes dali polivinil. Pa je tudi drzalo. Na tleh je pa shyrdah. Torej tepih, da ne lezis direkt na zemlji. Normalno so se selili na 2 meseca, tako da so izkoristili tudi visje lezece pasnike, kjer je bila trava, potem so se pa kasneje vrnili nizje, kjer je zrasla ze kar visoka trava. Zdaj k majo pa tursite so pa kar pri miru. Ta jurta je na 2600 m.n.m.

Ko sva prisla je snezilo. Majhen snezni metez, vmes je bilo tudi sonce, potem je padal leden dez, kmalu je bila pa se megla. To nas ni vstavilo. Takoj na konje pa akcija. Konji je bolj slaba beseda. Boljse bi bilo tursiticne mule v preobleki konja. Ja to ni slo hitreje k 3km/h ne glede na to kaj si se dru na njega in ga butal. Smo sli v hrib po snegu, ampak konj v sneg ne gre, ce je globji od 5 cm. Tako da smo sli, kjer so oni zeleli, ne toliko tam, kjer bi mi sli :-) Mraz pa za znoret. Bili smo nekje 3000m visoko, pihalo, snezilo, celo neurje. Mi pa dziha dziha naprej. Potem smo se pa dam obrnili. Konji kot prerojeni. Vsaj 6km/h. Valjda dam gremo, prej k bomo, boljs bo. Potem pa kosilo. Popoldne spet jahat, pa malo odmarat. Zvecer pa akcija! Pravo pastirsko delo. Treba je zgnat skupaj 72 krav in 3 jake, in nekaj milijonov ovc ter koz, ki pa bolj same pridejeo, ce 2x zazvizgas. To je pa taprava zabava. Celo konji razumejo, da takrat ni zajebancije in se odzivajo na ukaz. Tako da smo krave gnali domov kot pravi pastirji. Treba se jim je pa dret neki v stilu kot huus. In grejo. Ce ne, jo pa usekas po riti, da si zapomne. Cist majckene krave smo dali v eno majhno hisko, ostale pa spijo na travniku, ampak blizu jurte, da ne pride volk. Ovce in koze je pa treba zgnat v ogrado, da se jih zapre. To pa je zabava. Ograda za 100 ovc, jih je pa 150. Skor no. In se rinejo, in blejejo, ja akcija ni kaj. Po snegu in blatu smo jih koncno 5 komadov nagnali v ogrado. Ki je bila 10m on najine jurte. Tko da ponoci ni bilo tezav z tisino.

Imajo pa tudi 3 pse. Ta najvecji je Chef. Total srcklana mrcina. Ampak samo na videz. Njegova naloga je namrec, da credo brani pred volkovi. In to dejansko pocne celo noc. Na zalost. Ponoci je mraz za ... V jurti je sicer pecka, ki pa ponoci ugasne. Tako da se kar ohladi. Dobila sva zelo debel kovter in se debelo deko. Skupaj je to tehtalo nekje 47 kg. Na tleh pa samo en tepih in cez ovcja koza, tako da je trdo, ampak res ornk. No cez pa dobis tono za pokrit. Priznam, zeblo naju ni cisto nic, tudi brez spalke. Ampak teza je pa neznosna. Gasper je komaj pljuca dvigoval. Jaz sem pa poskusal spati na boku, dokler me niso kosti toliko bolele, da sem pol noci rajsi poslusal ipod, ker spat res nisem mogel. Ce pa slucajno sem zaspal ... stari dobri chef zacne lajat. Pa ostala 2 psa tudi. 2 metra od moje glave. Pa malo nehajo, pa spet. Drugo noc sem sel celo pogledat, kaj je za ena akcija. Konji, na pol divji, (ki se prosto pasejo), so prisli do jurte in psi jih ganjajo stran. Enega po enega, tko da je celo noc zurka. Eno noc pa chef zacne zamolklo lajat. Houu, houu. In to se je nadaljevalo vec kot eno uro. Sem ze vse ovce prestel 3x pa se nisem zaspal. Ponoci je blizu prisel VOLK in pes ga je zavohal in je potem toliko casa lajal, dokler ga ni odgnal. No toliko glede mrzle noci v jurti.

Aja zakaj majo psi ful radi tursiste? Zato, ker je za kosilo zilavo meso .....

2. dan smo zopet jahali. Spet ista storija. Konji v prvi, pa se vkljucen diferencial. Nic kaj posebnega. Potem, ko smo se pa vracali domov, sem ga pa usepl nagnat celo do galopa, tako da je bilo lustn. Samo je skor duso spustu, ker je bolj staro kljuse. Zvecer pa spet najljubse opravilo, gnat karove domov. Pa pazit, da ne poberes unih od sosjed. Sem se nausil prvi dan, ko so ene odlutale res dalec, da ce niso markirane so nase, ce imajo pa brand 0 so pa od sosjeda. Tako da mi je sefe zaupal, da prizenem tudi oddaljene. Pa se jake sem nasel in jih nagnal domov. Gasper se je pa navadil krotiti svojo mrcino, tako da je tudi aktivno zganjal karove na kup.

Toliko o poletnih pasnikih, kjer non stop snezi in res ne vem zakaj jim pravijo poletni. Smo imeli pa tudi soncka vmes po 10 minut, tako da se je dalo soncit.

Zdaj sva pa na najlepsem jezeru Issik Kul, ki je dolgo vec kot 200 km, siroko pa 30 km, in ga pocasi spreminjajo v Elite Resort for Russians.

Kyrgyz music

Popular Kyrgyz song from the 90s Kyrgyz Jeri by Salamat Sadykova. A very nice song about Kyrgyzstan.

A more modern sound from Kyrgyzstan:
Г. Сатылганова - Санат ыры
Nelya - Balalygym kyrgyz

From the ancient times the Kyrgyz people were famous for their good musical abilities. The Kyrgyzians divide their music stemming from the depth of ages into songs and kyu. All of the works created for national musical instruments belong to kyu. The most popular musical instrument is a three-string pizzicato komuz. A two-string bow kyyak and reed temir ooz komuz are also popular. A reed jigach ooz komuz, a sacred flute choor, and a sacred reed surnai are national musical instruments used by people.

The Kyrgyz people have tradition to play solo music. The performance of singers and musicians in turn as a kind of competition is very popular. The folklore existed in past exclusively in oral form. Performers imitated music from each other by ear. In so doing, they became not only interpreters but also co-authors or even creators of a new version of a musical work the kyu were inherited by new generations and each performer introduced its own details into a song. That is why its variation ness characterizes the Kyrgyz instrumental music. The majority of the Kyrgyz kyus are of an epic and narrative character. They absorbed various themes. They are everyday life narration, description of natural phenomena and scenes from animal life. The kyus were created under influence of the epic and its motifs.

The instrumental folklore is closely connected with a vocal music and often directly depends on it. The Kyrgyz musicians frequently interpret song melodies through national instruments.

The kyus widely represent such genres as lyrical, lyric and epic, lyric and philosophic, lyric and every-day life.

Popular national musicians – classics of the 18-20 centuries who created famous works of national instrumental music are Muzooke, Mailybai, Kudaibergen, Belek, Tilen, K.Belekov, A. Beishekurov, T. Satylganov, M. Kurenkeev, A. Ogonbaev, K. Orozov, Y. Tumanov and others.

Folk songs constitute a significant part of the Kyrgyz musical works.

A song creation by akyns is a specific kind of the Kyrgyz folklore. An akyn is a folk singer - improviser. A talented akyn - virtuoso is notable for his good vocal capabilities and a rich poetic gift. The akyn performs songs accompanying his singing by playing the komuz. Improvisation, ease development of musical and poetic thoughts, intonation and rhythmic freedom, and recitative manners of performing are characteristic of akyn singing. The komuz accompaniment very often imitates an akyn’s voice, and instrumental recoupments sound in the beginning, middle, and end of couplets.

The popular akyns and singers Jenidjok, Sary-yrchy, Esenaman, K. Akiev, T. Satylgnov, Y. Shaibekov, O. Bolebalayev, A. Chorobaev, A. Usenbaev, T. Abdiev, Z. Usenbaev and others became famous.

Musical instruments
The roots of Kyrgyz culture go back to the ancient times and an important part of this culture is musical culture of Kyrgyz people.
The Kyrgyz tribes came from Yenisei and this pre-Islamic musical culture has been reflected in the musical instruments and folklore from the ancient times till present.
Inhabitants of Yenisei river area have always been famous for their throaty singing, and their music based on the interchanging of voice and instrument.
From the ancient time Kyrgyz people adapted to apply handy natural materials for manufacturing of musical instruments, the use that permitted to convey the spirit of nation.
There are many various Kyrgyz national instruments, which differ from each other by the palette and diapason of sounding.

The most important place in Kyrgyz art belongs to instrumental music. All inhabitants of a nomad group - from children to the elderly would gather together in order to listen the master instrumentalist's play. The most fascinating and interesting holidays were the times of the music competitions. Also, an instrumental ensemble was an essential element of military campaigns.

The main feature of the distinctive style of Kyrgyz music is the images it conjures in the mind. There is a very wide picturesque range: from heroics with dramatic (epic) effects, to the beauty of natural scenery (mountains, trees and streams) and domestic themes.

Komuz - crafted from a single piece of wood with three strings that are played by plucking. The modern komuz is about 85-90 cm long with strings made of kapron. A special feature of the comuz is the ability to tune the strings in variety of ways to suit the music being played. To play the komuz, the performer holds it in a horizontal position while seated or - more rarely - standing. Numerous playing techniques are possible and mastery of the right (plucking) hand technique especially allows for playing a variety of difficult and complex compositions. The komuz is a standard member of any Kyrgyz folk music group. According to legend, the first komuz was made by the hunter Kambar. He himself was a master performer (komuschi), and Kambarkan became one of the distinctive creative genres of Kyrgyz folk music.
Among the numerous national instruments the most widespread and popular, has rich repertoire. While playing it, the three strings are clasped by the left hand to the fingerboard and the right hand is used to pluck the strings in a variety of ways to draw out the sounds.

Kyyak (kyl kyyak) - a string and bow instrument 60-70 cm in length. The traditional kyyak is made from the wood of an apricot tree and has two strings of untwisted horse hair. Horse hair is also used for bow. The kyyak is played by master performer (kyyakchi) in a seated position with the instrument held vertically while the stretched hair on the bow is drawn gently across the strings. The fingers of the left hand do not press the strings to the fingerboard; they gently touch it, producing colorful, harmonic tones similar to certain techniques used in violin playing. Given two options for tuning, the upper string is melodious while the lower string is resonant. The traditional kyyak is an instrument transposing one octave down. The majority of the traditional compositions for the kyyak are very lyrical and heartfelt, which is completely in accordance with the musical nature of the instrument.

The Temir komuz has also become a musical symbol of Kyrgyz - like komuz. This instrument is extremely small. Made of iron, it is shaped in the form of a broken, stretched circle with two prongs, and attached to the center is a steel plate. The sound is made by placing the prongs between the lips and striking the steel plate - and adjusting the shape of the hollow of the mouth.

One of the popular wind instruments is the chopo-choor. It is made out of clay and has a shape that comfortably sits in palm like a putty-shaped ball with holes.

To much of the music there is a religious meaning, tightly connected with Kyrgyz shamanism. They had percussion instruments, such as the dobulba and asa-tayak. A dobulba is a one-sided framed drum with wed tied around one end. Striking it with the hands makes the sound. The asa-tayak is made out of wood in the shape of baton. Bells and other iron objects are attached to this framework as additional sources of sounds that are generated by rocking or striking the sharp end of instrument on the ground.

Uzbek music

Traditional Uzbek music and dance in Bukhara...

...and in Khiva

traditional meets ...hmmm less traditional? Let's hear...

Contemporary Uzbek rhythms...
Interested in more? Just click here... The Uzbek music

Central Asian classical music is called shashmaqam, which arose in Bukhara in the late 16th century when that city was a regional capital. Shashmaqam is closely related to Azeri mugam and Uyghur muqam. The name, which translates as six maqams refers to the structure of the music, which contains six sections in different musical modes, similar to classical Persian music. Interludes of spoken Sufi poetry interrupt the music, typically beginning at a low register and gradually ascending to a climax before calming back down to the beginning tone.

Endurance of listening and continual audiences that attend events, such as bazms or weddings, is what makes the folk-pop style of music so popular. The classical music in Uzbekistan is very different than that of the pop music. Mostly men listen to solo or duo shows during a morning or evening meeting amongst men. Shash maqam, which is the main component of the classical genre of music. The large support of the musicians came from high class families, which meant the patronage was to be paid to the Shash maqam above all things. Poetry is where some of the music is drawn from. Those that perform the pieces are fluent in speaking both Uzbek and Tajik. In some instances of the music the two languages are even mixed as one in the same song. In the 1950s the folk music became less popular, and the genre was barred from the radio stations. They didn’t completely dispel the music all together, although the name changed to "feudal music". Although banned, the folk musical groups continued to play their music in their own ways and spread it individually as well. Many say that it was the most liberated musical experience in their lives.

Uzbek Dances
Dances connected with everyday life, religious rites, and holidays have existed since ancient times among the peoples inhabiting Central Asia, as indicated by drawings on rock walls depicting dancing figures.
Professional dancers from Samarkand, Bukhara and Tashkent were widely known in many states of the East between the fourth and eighth centuries B.C. Historical chronicles refer to the popularity and high level of development of dance between the 9th, 12th, 14th and 16th centuries.

Contemporary Uzbek dance has many genres, forms, and schools, including the classical Uzbek dances. In contrast to the classical dances of other peoples of the East, which mainly tell stories by means of gestures, facial mimicry, and pantomime, Uzbek classical dance is devoid of concrete imagery; the dance movements themselves express emotions. Classical Uzbek dances deal with generalized themes and emotions, for example, happiness and grief, joy and sorrow, life, death and delight and the beauty of nature and grandeur of the elements. Uzbek folk dances, which deal with themes of labor and war, also use the movements of the classical Uzbek school.

Uzbek classical dance eventually formed three schools, those of Fergana, Khorezm and Bukhara, each of which had its own dance expression, as well as a developed system of training. The Fergana school, because of historical conditions, was however the most highly developed.

Despite the high level of professional dance, by the beginning of the 20th century Uzbek folk dance had nearly ceased to exist, since it was prohibited by Islamic edicts. Dance continued to develop only among professionals, who danced in solo performances, while the common people did not dare dance, even on national holidays.

In 1918, Uzbek national dance began its transformation into a practically new folk art. In 1923, Kari Jakubov formed a troupe including well known musicians and the young dancer Tamara Khanum.

The first Traveling ethnographic troupe, organized in 1926, included well known musicians, singers, and dancer choreographers. In 1928 the troops made up the core of the first experimental musical drama. The new genre of stage dance, later gained wide recognition. The theatre also operated a studio. The Uzbek Song and Dance Ensemble, established in Tashkent in 1936, assimilated the best traditions of folk and classical Uzbek choreography; known as Shodlik. The Bakhor Ensemble, directed by M. Turgunbaev, was founded in 1957, and the Liazgi Khorezm Song and Dance Ensemble, directed by People's Artist of the Uzbekistan G.A. Rakhimova, was established in 1958.

Kochkor

Zivijo! Javljava se iz Kochkorja. To je mala vasica, od koder bomo odsli v divjino na razprostrane gorske pasnike. V poletnem casu (od konca maja nekje do septembra) se crede koz in ovc ter krav preselijo na gorske poletne pasnike. Tradicionalni nacin bivanja je v jutrah in to si greva ogledat.

Vceraj sva imela cel dan dez. Tako, da sva resnicno izmucena. Noc v avtu od Taskenta do Osha, potem cel dan dez, ko je lilo kod iz skafa, potem pa zopet v avto za cez noc do Biskeka. Sva pa vseeno zbrala pogum in se v najvecjem dezju odpravila na trznico. Od povsod je curljalo in lilo med polivinili, ki so sluzili kot streha in ce si imel res sreco je ravno, ko si hotel mimo nekdo brcnil v podporni kol, tako da se ti je par litrov vode iz polivinila zlilo za vrat. Strehca je pa itak tako nizka (prilagojena na kirgiski standard visine), de se je Gasper 3 skor zadavil, ko je nabasal direkt not v strike. Ne vem zakaj meni ni bilo toliko hudega pri tem??? Prideva potem do srede trznice in je bila cesta total poplavljena, ker se je zamasila kanalizacija. In so potem ljudje do kolen bredli cez vodo. Midva sva joh pa slikala. Itak.

No, zjutraj pa po naporni noci prideva v Biskek. Navsezgodaj, ker je taxi zelo sibal ponoci. Da rajsi sploh ne pisem kako zgleda, ce je voznik verizni kadilec in vsakih 15! minut na stezaj odpre okno, da se ne bomo zadusili. Zraven se je pa vozil se njegov brat, ki je pa kadil na 19 minut in odpiral svoje okone. Ni treba dolgo racunat, da je bilo non stop odprto in mraaaaaaaaaaz. Ko sta bili obe okni zaprti, pa je kurjava ki je bila na max segrela zadevo do +30. Mislim kalvarija. Sli smo cez gorski prelaz, kjer se snezilo! In ob robu je od zime mestoma lezalo se do 2 metra nametanega snega. Zunaj je bilo 2 stopinji, tako da je pri dveh odprtih oknih res zelo mrzlo. Midva pa da bova kao spala. Pol pa se tole: Zjutri se pa taxiju sploh ni dalo it v mesto, je reku da nama on placa enga druzga taksista, da naju zafura v center. Ok, kaj pa hoceva.

Prideva torej od 5h v center. Nikjer nic. Prosiva taksista, da naju zapelje v nek bar na zajtrk in naju je. Se najeva in Uros ze zacne z Biskek Expressom 30%. Potem sva sla pa na trznico. In sva bila prva tam, ker odprejo sele ob 8h. Ura je bila pa 6.40. In sva sla direkt na tadrugo trznico. Tudi ta je bila se zaprta. Res sva carja. Na dveh trznicah v nedeljo sva bila prej kot kdorkoli. No ta druga se je vsaj odprla ob 7h, tko da je slo. Najprej greva v obmjen dzengi - Valjut, torej menjava denarja. Pa so imeli full dober kurs! AHA. To je ze drek ponavadi. Sla sva vsak k svojemu okencku. Nama nasteje denar. Ponavadi vzames pa gres, a ne. No na sreco nisva. Pri obeh se je ravno zmotil za 1 bankovec. Ne bi bilo veliko (2%) ampak vseeno, BANDA! Popoldne sva sla se enkrat v menjavo. Ista storija. Spet glih za 1 bankovec in to ze 3 stricek.

Na vmes je pa tudi Vindy sel na Biskek express. 30%. No jaz sem ze napredoval na 50% in opoldne ze do 70% pol sem mel pa dost in sem vzel tablete proti zelodcnim tezavam, da boste vedeli o cem govorim. Panika je bila vmes tudi v muzeju. So me prijazne tete usmerile v pravo smer. Papirja pa nikjer. Se bo treba znajdt.Iscem vse mozno, najdem stare krizanke, v eni stranski sobi, v omari. Za silo bo in sila je bila! Imajo pa navado, da papir mecejo v kos, kot v Grciji. In kaj zagledam v kosu??? Ja krizanke. Ocitno je to kar standardna praksa, oziroma so prav temu namenjene. LOL. Potem sva sla nazaj v Biskek, da si ga pogledava. Khm. Torej natanko 2 trga, sovjetsko velika in socialisticno grda. 3 spmenike. Leninu, Frunzeju in Svobodi. Aja pa se vojni. Da ne bo krivice. Vam je jasno v katerem letu smo. Nekje 1950. Cela drzava je se kar bolj tam imava obcutek vcasih. In potem nazaj v gostilno, kjer sva pustila rukzake zjutraj. Ja ze spet ista fora. Od tam sva sla z taksijem in si nisva pogledala kje tocno sva. Lahko bi me ze izucilo enkrat. Sva vedela od oka, da je najbrz en park zraven. Tako, da sva le uspela najti pravo zadevo, ceprav se je meni ze ZELOOO mudilo. Ta park in spomeniki so pa vse kar mesto ima. Imajo pa izjemno lepo naravo. In zato sva tukaj!

Jutri sibava torej v hribe jahat konje. Ubistvu niti ni drago. Imajo zadeve zrihtane tako, da tesno sodelujejo z lokalno skupnostjo, tako da pride denar v roke pastirjev in kmetov, ne pa v agencije.

Bova sla jahat, pila mleko, kefir, jugurt. Jedla strjene kroglice neke skute slash sira. Lahko napisem v lokalnem jeziku ce pomaga. Kurut. Small balls of tart, dried yogurt. Spali bomo pa v jurti in poslusali zavijanje volkov. Upam samo da se ne bomo sli tradicionalne kirgiske igre, kjer se konjeniki tepejo in klofajo za mrtvo ovco ali kozo, ki jo mecejo naokoli. Nekaj med ragbijem in polom.

Prideva nazaj cez kake 3 dni, da ne boste skrbeli.

PA PA

Zdrastvujte!

Po ponovnem kratkem obisku Taskenta, kjer sva spala v res socialisticni sobi, kar pomeni da je bilo zgrajeno v 50 letih in postelja je se originalna. Na sredi je imela nekaj velikih lukenj, tako da je bila kar umetnost najti plac za spat. V celem nadstropju je le en WC, stalno poln, tusa pa sploh nikjer. Vendar ti prijazna receptorka za 0,5E dovoli, da se tusiras v LJUKS sobi, kjer pa imajo tus.
Potem sva pa odsla na pot proti Kirgiziji. Na taxi standu je bila cela akcija. Stopiva ven iz avta in takoj enih 12 komadova se zacne dret in nagovarjat kam greva. Cela panika v glavnem. Pa se jaz z enim faconarjem ze dogovarjam, ko se obesi se 5 drugih in kar vmes tulijo in delajo zgago. Tko da sem zelo naglas povedal v ruscini da bo zaleglo, da se JAZ ZE POGOVARJAM S TEM GOSPODOM TUKAJ! Pa je bil mir v sekundi. Sva se mu pa zgleda z tem full prikupila. Med voznjo smo se veliko pogovarjali, ker ga je zanimalo kako je pri nas, kaksne so stvari, kaj delamo in vse take zadeve. Na koncu smo bili ze taki kolegi, da je sel on do naslednjega taksista, ki naju bo peljal do meje in se je on dogovoril koliko bova placala, da naju ne bo nasral. Normalna cena je 5.000 on nama je zrihtal da greva za 3.000. In to pri svojem sotrpinu! Ne bo naju on sekiral!

Pot do meje je bila pa fenomenalna. Gorski prelaz, po dolini tece cisto bistra reka, vmes pa akumulacijsko jezero smaragdne barve. Super v glavnem.

Na meji pa stroga kontrola. Ampak so bili prijazni in so nama pomagali izpolnjevati obrazce v grabljicah. Pol pa meni cekira potni list, Gasperju je bilo pa dolgcas. In potegne ven Lonely Planet. Prej naju je pa policaj spraseval, ce imava kake zemljevide s seboj. Ne, ne nimava. Ma kaki. In pol knjiga polna zemljevidov na mizo. Pa vprasa ta drug policaj (pa to ni vic) kaj je to za ena knjiga. In Gasper prbije to je pa nasa BIBLIJA! Oni pa sami zagreti muzlici, je unga kr ruknel: KAJ??? Pa sem pol se jaz hitro vskocil, da je to kniga za narediti rutko (nacrt poti) in da so hoteli notri, pa mesta, bla bla. Tko da je pol mislu, da je najbrz narobe slisal. UF, close one.

Zdaj sva pa v mestu Osh, kjer rihtava zadeve za naprej. Glavna aktivnost je seveda jahanje konjev in spanje v Jurtah. Imava pa tezavo, ker smo zacetek maja in se na visokogorske pasnike se niso podali in zato na najlepsem koncu pri nekem misticnem jezeru se ni jurt. Tako da imava se nekaj tezav z organizacijo. Tako da sva zvecer 3 ure lutala po mestu gor pa dol in iskala CBT. Turisticno organizacijo. Ker je na zemljevidu vrisana na napacnem kraju. Na koncu nama je pomagal en svicar, kar iz avta ven in naju usmeril na drug konec mesta. Sva koncno nasla on 5.30 zvecer in trkava, nikjer nobenega. Kako ce delajo do 6h? Banda. Pol pa le gruntava da smo najbrz ze bolj na vzhodu in da je mozno, da smo uro prestavili. In bi jo res morala. Tko da je bilo ze pac zaprto.

Danes je dan velike pobede in to v bivsi SSSR se na veliko praznujejo. Tako da bo danes v mestu parada.

Za enkrat toliko.

PA PA

Disaster in Uzbekistan

Se malo ekologije in podobnih zadev.

Vecina Uzbeklistana je plodna ravnina, nekje stepa, nekje pol puscava, oziroma cista puscava, ki sta jo reki Syr-Darya in Amu-Darya ze stoletja sperminjali v oazo in plodno ravnico, saj je bilo vode dovolj. Imeli so tudi manjsi sistem namakanja z kanali.

V letih ruske okupacije pa so rusi prisli na idejo, da bo Uzbekistan glavna pridelovalka bombaza za celo SSSR. In resnicno so do 66% bombaza v SSSR pridelali v Uzb. Seveda ne brez truda. Potrebna je bila regulacija rek Syr in Amu-Darya. Imeli so celo plane preusmeriti sibirske reke in celo skopati kanal do reke Ob. Tako so privzem vode iz obeh rek povecali na 2x kolicino. Vendar niso dosegli zelo veliko. Vec kanalov pomeni vecje izhlapevanje in vecjo potrosnjo vode, tako da so kolicino izdelka uspeli dvigniti za malih 20%. Kaj pa posledice?

Reki Syr-Darya in Amu-Darya sta ogromni. Vecji kot Donava! In sta seveda ustvarili izjemno veliko jezero, 4. najvecje na svetu. Imenuje se Aralsko jezero, oz. celo morje. Veliko je bilo za 3.5 Slovenije od enega konca do drugega veliko 400 km x 300 km. OGROMNO!
Potem pa je vode zacelo zmanjkovati. Izgleda kot nemogoce, vendar je za mnoge ljudi res. Jezero izginja. Hitro in nazadrzno. V 20 letih je razpadlo na vec manjsih, ki izginjajo naprej. Eno od ribiskih mest Moynak z izjemno razvito ribisko industrijo je zgubilo stik z morjem, ki je sedaj oddaljeno vec kot 150 km! Katarstrofa! Na obali so se vedno parkirane ladje sredi pescene puscave. V sredi Aralskega morja je bil otok Vozrozdenije - Rojstvo. Tu so rusi delali poizkuse z virusi kuge in antraxa. Ker je bil dalec stran od vsega. Ko se je morje umaknilo je ta otok postal povezan z celino! Na sreco so americani prisli in stvari popucali, ce ni ze kaj uslo do takrat.


Podobno se dogaja tudi z zemljo, ki je prevec onesnazena zaradi pesticidov in gnojenja, hkrati pa izginja po dezju. V 70% vzorcev zemlje je se vedno DDT. Tako da se Uzbekistanu, ce ne bodo nic spremenili pise slabo. Podobno je bilo tudi v drugih republikah, kjer se je po razpadu SSSR vse podrlo. O tem kaj je bilo v Kyrgyzstanu pa drugic!

LP, Uke